Henry still remembers the first time he tasted Kona SL34.
He was standing on the volcanic slopes of Kona. The morning mist began to clear as the first cup was poured. One sip, and everything changed - the depth, the balance, the unmistakable complexity. He didn’t know it then, but that same coffee would go on to rank #1 in the 2021 Alliance for Coffee Excellence (ACE) Hawaii Private Collection, and just four years later, in 2025, it would shatter records at the Dubai World of Coffee Auction, selling for an unprecedented $910.00/kg - the highest price ever paid for an American grown coffee.
When people think of Hawaiian coffee, Kona often comes to mind and for good reason. Among the many varietals grown in the region, few can rival the mystique and complexity of SL34, a rare Arabica cultivar originally developed in Kenya.
This varietal has found a new life in Hawaii’s volcanic soil, producing a flavor so distinctive and elegant that it recently shattered auction records, selling for over $450 per pound. Its elevation in the specialty coffee world marks a turning point not just for the farm but for Hawaiian coffee itself.
Kona SL34 isn't just rare. It’s unforgettable. The cup reveals layered notes of dark cherry, tropical florals, and warm spice with a velvety finish that lingers like a fine wine.
People often associate coffee with tropical landscapes, and Hawaii fits that image perfectly. Today, the Islands are home to some of the world's most famous coffee varieties, but the story of how coffee took root there is a journey shaped by global trade, immigration, and the Islands' unique environment.
Coffee: An Imported Treasure
Coffee is not indigenous to Hawaii. The coffee plant, Coffea arabica, originally comes from Ethiopia. From there, it spread to the Arabian Peninsula, then to Europe, Asia, and the Americas. Hawaii's connection to coffee didn't start until the early 19th century.
The first coffee plants arrived in Hawaii in 1817 when Don Francisco de Paula Marin, a Spanish advisor to King Kamehameha I, reportedly attempted to grow coffee on the Islands. His efforts were unsuccessful. It wasn't until 1825 that coffee cultivation gained real momentum.
In that year, Chief Boki, the governor of Oahu, returned from a diplomatic mission to London and brought coffee plants from Brazil. These Brazilian coffee plants found a home in Hawaii's rich volcanic soil and tropical climate, particularly on the Big Island.
In 1828, Reverend Samuel Ruggles successfully planted coffee in the Kona District of the Big Island. The Kona region's unique climate - morning sun, afternoon clouds, regular rainfall, and high elevation - created ideal conditions for coffee cultivation. The name "Kona" itself comes from the Hawaiian language, meaning "leeward" or "dry side," referring to the western, sunny side of the island. Traditionally, each Hawaiian island had a Kona district, but today the term is most closely tied to the Big Island’s famous coffee-growing region. Ruggles’ work laid the foundation for the now world-famous Kona coffee industry.
Growth Through Immigration and Innovation
In the decades following Ruggles' success, coffee production spread throughout the Islands. Farmers established coffee plantations on Kauai, Maui, Oahu, and Molokai. However, the industry faced challenges. Sugarcane quickly became the dominant crop in Hawaii because of higher profits and greater demand. Farmers abandoned many coffee farms or converted them into sugar plantations.
Despite this, small coffee farms persisted, particularly in Kona. The labour intensive nature of coffee farming meant that it wasn't as easily adapted to the plantation model. Instead, it thrived on smaller, family run farms.
Immigration played a crucial role in Hawaii's coffee development. Japanese, Filipino, Portuguese, and later, Puerto Rican laborers brought essential skills and hard work to coffee farms. Over time, many immigrant families leased or bought small plots of land, nurturing a culture of smallholder coffee farming that remains a hallmark of Hawaiian coffee production.
The Rise of Kona Coffee
By the late 19th century, Kona coffee began gaining a reputation for its quality. Its smooth, rich flavor, low acidity, and complex aroma distinguished it from other coffees. However, the industry faced difficulties. In the early 20th century, the collapse of world coffee prices and competition from Central and South American coffee producers put immense pressure on Hawaiian growers.
World War II further strained the coffee sector, as labor shortages and material rationing hit farmers hard. Yet in the postwar years, interest in specialty coffee grew. Kona coffee, already well regarded, became a premium product. Marketing efforts in the 1950s and 1960s helped cement Kona coffee's reputation, and tourism to Hawaii gave many visitors their first taste of the Islands' unique brew.
Today, "Kona coffee" is a prized designation, legally protected to ensure authenticity. For a coffee to be labeled "100% Kona coffee," it must come exclusively from the Kona Districts of North and South Kona on the Big Island.
The Modern Hawaiian Coffee Industry
Hawaii is the only U.S. state that grows coffee commercially. As of the early 2020s, Hawaii produces about 5 to 6 million pounds of coffee cherry annually, which converts to roughly 1,000 to 1,200 metric tons of green coffee beans.
Kona remains the most famous growing region. Coffee is now grown in other parts of the Big Island (like Ka‘u and Puna), as well as on Maui (notably in areas like Kaanapali), Kauai, Oahu (the Waialua Estate), and Molokai. Each region produces coffee with distinctive flavor profiles because of variations in soil, elevation, and microclimate.
Kauai, for example, hosts some of the largest coffee operations in the state. Kauai Coffee Company is the largest coffee farm in the United States, encompassing around 3,100 acres.
The overall Hawaiian coffee industry is relatively small by global standards. For comparison, Brazil, the world's largest coffee producer, generates over 3 million metric tons of coffee per year. Yet Hawaiian coffee punches far above its weight in terms of prestige and price. Hawaiian-grown coffee, especially Kona, commands some of the highest prices per pound in the world.
Challenges Facing the Industry
Despite its prestige, the Hawaiian coffee industry faces serious challenges.
Pests and Diseases: The coffee berry borer (Hypothenemus hampei), a tiny beetle devastating to coffee crops, was first detected in Hawaii in 2010. This pest can significantly reduce yields and requires careful management.
- Labor Costs: Unlike many coffee-producing countries where labor is inexpensive, Hawaii has high labor costs. This limits competitiveness against cheaper imports.
- Climate Change: Shifting weather patterns, affects coffee flowering and fruiting. Droughts, stronger storms, and changing temperatures threaten coffee yields.
- Labeling and Fraud: Some "Kona blends" sold on the mainland contain only 10% Kona coffee, mixed with cheaper beans. Authentic 100% Kona coffee is more expensive and
limited.
Looking Forward
Innovation and resilience define Hawaii's coffee farmers. To combat pests, growers employ integrated pest management techniques, bio control agents, and selective pruning. Research institutions like the University of Hawaii work closely with farmers to develop resistant coffee varieties and improved farming practices.
Some farmers have also diversified their income by combining coffee cultivation with tourism. "Farm-to-cup" experiences - where visitors tour coffee farms, watch the roasting process, and taste fresh brews - have become popular, particularly in Kona.
In recent years, Hawaiian coffee producers have also embraced direct-to-consumer sales via online platforms, allowing them to reach specialty coffee drinkers worldwide without relying solely on traditional distribution networks.
Final Sip
Coffee in Hawaii has a rich history rooted in global migration, agricultural adaptation, and the tenacity of small farmers. Imported from Brazil almost two centuries ago, coffee found a second home on volcanic slopes under tropical skies. Today, although the Hawaiian coffee industry is small - producing about 1,000 to 1,200 metric tonnes per year - it is big in reputation.
In a world increasingly dominated by mass-market coffee, Hawaiian coffee remains a symbol of quality, heritage, and a deep connection between land, culture, and craft.
